While other couturiers peddle in fairytale fashion, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are interested in an alternative avenue to fantasy — chiefly that of fashion's artistic possibilities.
Viktor & Rolf occupy an altogether different space on the Couture calendar than their peers. While other couturiers peddle in fairytale fashion, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are interested in an alternative avenue to fantasy — chiefly that of fashion’s artistic possibilities. Season after season, they explore avant-garde concepts, tricking out models with their own lighting and sound rigs so that they become a runway show unto themselves or crafting elaborate art pieces complete with their own frames so that their clothes can be (and are) hung on the wall of a gallery. Their sense of whimsy and experimentation is supported by serious, studious craftsmanship, to the point where their clothes become a metaphysical “other” — both art and human adornment of the highest degree of uniqueness. For Spring 2016 Couture, Viktor & Rolf once again go pillaging through the art world for inspiration, landing on a brilliant version of Cubism that is translated into a collection meant, once again, for a museum rather than a closet.
They build their Picasso-esque faces atop the canvas of simple, optic-white polo mini dresses, each one individualized by a facial silhouette, abstracted body parts, clusters of raised 3D cubes, and rippling bows. Every element is either cut directly onto the surface of each look, or stacked in layers that build height and drama onto the shape of the dress. What starts off as a basic polo mini with a front cut-out panel in the shape of a facial profile is transmogrified by the end into a totem sprouting a fan that completely obscures the model’s vision.
A collection meant, once again, for a museum rather than a closet.
Granted, the last look is impractical to the point of being ridiculous, but it still flaunts the designer’s eager craftsmanship. Imagine these looks scaled back for commercial supply, and you’ll instantly recognize the appeal of a fantastically cut, comfortable dress that sports a hint of whimsy and artistry.