Alexandre Vauthier exists to provocate and push the envelope, and what better way to do that then to take your Spring 2016 Couture collection and pair oversized, mannish military coats with sheer mini dresses so short they necessitate a leotard underneath? Vauthier’s sizzling collection for the season is made for the glamazons, the tanned and toned women whose body confidence is displayed by revealing clothes that hug every curve just right.
If at first this collection looks covered up, blame it on the outerwear, which serves to frame the negative space of so much skin with chicly tailored lines. The show launches with a look that might have come straight from Gigi Hadid’s closet: a black turtleneck dress with fold-over accents with a hemline that ends at the top of the thighs paired with seductive over-the-knee boots and topped by a heavy coat. The strappy band that completes the hemline of Vauthier’s mini dresses are echoed throughout the collection with similar asymmetrical straps holding up the bodice of a sheer moss green dress, or crossing the body beneath a sheer lace mini.
Vauthier does best when he sticks to a slinky, seductive template — he’s a master of the tease, after all.
With lightweight, sheer fabrics cutaway in strategic areas and then wrapped around the body in others, there is little left to the imagination. However, Vauthier supplies a counterpart to the parade of flesh by showing a jumpsuit and two mini dresses in slicked-up, glossy leather. The only problem is, they are too top-heavy in proportion, and are an unflattering throwback to the worst of the 1980s. Low-slung trousers with large bulky pockets suffer the same fate. Vauthier does best when he sticks to a slinky, seductive template — he’s a master of the tease, after all. The best looks came when asymmetrically cut gowns with strappy bodices were worn beneath casual tuxedo-esque jackets, as if the vixen had tossed on her boyfriend’s jacket at a smoky after-hours club. If there’s one thing that’s clear in this collection: these clothes are meant for epic party nights.