For Spring 2016 Couture, Stéphane Rolland's presentation revived the spirit of the old Paris salons.
For Spring 2016 Couture, Stéphane Rolland‘s presentation revived the spirit of the old Paris salons. This old-school method gave each look a name and number so that the collection’s purveyors might easily place an order after the show. Although in 2016, couture houses no longer operate this way, the show’s throwback placards lent an old-school-cool feeling to the proceedings. Showing only 17 looks, the collection went for maximum impact from the outset, with dramatic volumes filling the small runway with billowing sleeves and feather-tufted skirts. Although Rolland’s dominant silhouette was relaxed through the waist, it clung to the body in provocative fashion as the models glided down the catwalk. Buoyed by outré decorative elements, like enormous rippling sleeves trimmed with contrasting sections of tulle, his gowns left a powerful impression.
By confidently blending avant-garde elements with familiar glamour, Rolland struck an accord between two realms: the theater of the bizarre and the ballet of the beautiful.
Although Rolland’s revival of the classics were profoundly beautiful to look at, the most interesting looks came toward the end of the show. These jaw-dropping pieces featured such looks as a gown made from skillfully placed pleated fans that formed voluminous dimensions, nude textured bodices that were stitched to stiff, tiered skirts in siren red, and a sci-fi gown that looked like pointed armor. While it was a theatrical display, it never felt costume-y, which proves Rolland’s skill as a couturier. By confidently blending avant-garde elements with familiar glamour, Rolland struck an accord between two realms: the theater of the bizarre and the ballet of the beautiful.
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