It was a crowded scene at Stéphane Rolland’s salon on Avenue George V, as press and clients clamored to see what was new for the Fall 2015 Couture season. The couturier’s reputation has steadily grown over the years, marked by his advanced notions of sculptural designs and his bold vision for high fashion. Although his signature flourish is found in the architectural swoops, shapes, and swirls of his daring silhouettes, Rolland looked to interiors as well as exteriors this season. Tremendously beautiful gowns with windowpane cutouts were upholstered in sturdy panels of contrasting silicone and were splashed with outsized earthtone prints. Amid the mid-century modern finery of his otherworldly dresses were delightful anomalies, like an acid-green pantsuit with a matching cape, a simple white column gown with a netted overlay, and a jaw-dropping lasercut skirt that held its shape beautifully. A nomadic quality crept into the collection by way of blanket coats, generously cut kaftans, and tribal tops with detached sleeves. The face and shoulders were emphasized repeatedly throughout the presentation with the use of enormous, jutting constructions that were especially striking when shown in glossy gold. The more avant-garde elements in the show worked favorably with his elongated silhouette, offering a more easeful approach to couture. Rather than reaching too far and failing, Rolland has relaxed into his role as a couturier, and ended up with a decoratively impressive, but wearable, collection for the season.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree
