There may not be any aesthetic pairing as disparate as a “chola” member of a Latin American street gang and a refined Victorian socialite, but Riccardo Tisci’s idea of blending the two opposite ends of the spectrum resulted in a terrific collection for Givenchy. It’s a heady mix — one that could easily have been a disaster — but Tisci achieved balance by showing Victorian style with his garments in contrast to “chola” style with his beauty look (enormous, black facial piercings and slicked-down baby hairs). The juxtaposition couldn’t have been more romantic or more terrifying.
Since the Victorian era instantly conjures up ideas of corsets, Tisci made sure to add them to many of the looks. Boned corsets were worn over embroidered jackets, velvet frocks, and princess-cut coats alike. When they weren’t present, Tisci still showed a nipped-in waist, which was balanced with voluminous skirts, peplum details, and padded hips. The restrictive nature of the clothes was countered by the anachronistic beauty look, which imbued the entire collection with a sense of rebellion. Alluring clothes kept the collection on track, as Tisci showed a variety of gorgeous jet-black dresses with sheer insets, glamorous, dyed fur stoles, furry cutaway jackets with red contrast trim, and peacock feather-printed dresses. Although the clothes were great and beautifully constructed, the cultural-assimilation factor left an unsettling feeling hanging in the air after the show wrapped.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree