Instead of musing on grandiose ideas, Elie Saab allowed his Fall/Winter 2015 collection to speak for itself. It became apparent upon entering a darkened arena inside the Espace Ephémère Tuileries that Saab was up to something different this season, and our guess proved to be correct as soon as a heavy metal soundtrack began blasting from the speakers. While the skies at Saab are usually sunny, they were overcast this time around, affording a more introspective, serious take on his typically glamorous attire.
Dark military ensembles opened the show with three-piece looks tailored on lengthened lines, while tweedy frocks were short, simple, and stylish. Saab also introduces leather into his line-up with fitted coats featuring glossy leather sleeves, while the rest of the collection was treated with elegant leather gloves and peep-toe, lace-up booties. Printed dresses came in darker tones, but were uplifted by dashes of gold brocade. The glamour quotient increased exponentially with the addition of latticework lace details, and made the strongest impression on fit-and-flare frocks in shades of jet black or teal. Saab’s signature column dresses were shown with throat-grasping scarf attachments, boat necks, or with high-necked collars, with plenty of variation to be had in the way of embellishment and hue. If this is Saab’s anarchic side, we’re still buying in.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree