At first glance, the Haider Ackermann runway appears to be an elegant take on rock ‘n’ roll fashions, but look closer. Ackermann is nothing if not a wizard at construction and a thoughtful designer to boot. An inspection of his Fall/Winter 2015 collection reveals the impressive technical accomplishments of his work, and they are legion. The designer set out to repair the “failures of life”. Translated onto clothes, this meant basting stitches left unfinished, which not only supported his thesis, but also acted as one of the few decorative elements in an otherwise polished show.
At first glance, the Haider Ackermann runway appears to be an elegant take on rock ‘n’ roll fashions, but look closer.
Ackermann’s collection skewed youthful, with shrunken jacquard jackets, skintight leather leggings, checkered coats, and animal-print blouses radiating a luxe/punk vibe. The silhouette was neat and flattering, eschewing the recent trend toward oversized fits. Patterns were aplenty, with well-cut coats and jackets covered in versions of plaid and chevron tweed. On one look, he paired a checkered tweed topcoat with nothing else but a pair of skintight, blue plaid trousers, while on another he turned a ladylike tweed jacket into a punky creation with the addition of checked insets, a mini skirt with pleated gills, and leather leggings. There was a certain gracefulness to Ackermann’s looks; each was efficiently styled, effervescently cool, and completely wearable despite their high-minded construction. The closing look showed a sweeping black duster over an even longer animal-print maxi dress, and it was beautiful even though in print it may sound lackluster. Don’t be fooled by the descriptive limits of human language; Ackermann’s work is the kind that must be seen to be fully appreciated.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree