John Galliano’s first collection for Maison Margiela was during Spring 2015 Couture Week in London, but this second collection is where he unleashed the full measure of his powers. It was characteristically quirky, with models in sad clown makeup walking the runway with hunched-over postures, but the clothes were on the right side of stylish.
When eccentric styling, beauty, and theatrical stage cues are stripped away, the collection glitters with glamorous ideas, but on Galliano’s turf, histrionics are part and parcel of the proceedings. The show opened with a wool camel trench cut close to the body and traced with additional seaming and button “impressions” (a fast reminder of how much Galliano loves trompe l’oeil details). The trench became a cropped jacket for the next look, its shrunken size balanced by a ballooning pair of pinstriped trousers with a deconstructed side opening. Dusters came in many versions, from glossy liquid leather to tattered suede. Hobo chic seemed to be the theme, but a déshabillé notion is one that the fashion pack loves. Surprisingly, there were dozens of supremely wearable looks on the MM runway, namely silky minis and shorts, velvet jackets, glittering frocks, and tight capri trousers. Tougher to digest were dresses so short they may as well have been tees, worn with sheer body stockings, but there were only two, so save your pearl clutching for Cavalli. Galliano refused to appear at the end of the show, even after the audience repeatedly called for his presence. Clearly a lot has changed since he was last at the helm of a major fashion house, but we never anticipated shyness from the flamboyant designer. Perhaps this time he was simply allowing his dramatic, humorous, and flashy collection speak for itself.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree