Although the successors to Carven in the wake of the departure of Guillaume Henry for Nina Ricci have been kept carefully under wraps, newly appointed Creative Directors Adrien Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial enjoyed their first moment in the spotlight at the end of the Fall/Winter 2015 presentation. In their capable hands, Carven was as fresh and as youthful as ever.
The collection upheld a 1960s aesthetic, showcasing brief mini skirts fitted with buttons or covered in vibrant floral prints. Trousers were also retro in fit — high-waisted, straight through the leg, and stopping just above the ankle. Proportionally balanced by bulkier tops with wide, tapered sleeves or cropped jackets, Carven’s runway achieved a slightly more masculine mood than usual. Midway through, the collection pivoted, heading in a more maximal direction. There were stunning, padded print separates, embroidered silk frocks, and dimensional tops covered in clusters of crystals. From there, the looks pivoted again, exploring ruffled pleating and peplum accents finished with asymmetrical contrast trim. There is depth to what Caillaudaud and Martial are doing at Carven — they presented a multitude of ideas, each appealing in its own way, but which steadfastly hewed to the brand DNA. It was an auspicious start to what appears to be a designer/brand match forged from common cause.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree