The “you can’t sit with us” crowd just got a whole new wardrobe, thanks to Anthony Vaccarello’s dark and sultry efforts for Fall/Winter 2015. While we aren’t suggesting Vaccarello was inspired by Mean Girls, the looks weren’t exactly friendly and welcoming. His models were leggy and aloof, wearing tight mini dresses or shorts/trouser hybrids that resembled urbanized versions of a sarong in a jet-black palette. Trimmed with dozens of metallic elements — from “bolero” pins pierced straight through the collar and spiky studs to silver grommets and flashy metal stars — there was a distinctly rock ‘n’ roll feel to it all. For a dose of intimidating cool, the Vaccarello runway was as daunting as they come.
A modest proposal launched the presentation with a sturdy four-piece look that layered together a blazer trimmed with leather bracers, a plain button-up shirt, skinny trousers, and an impressive geometric belt. This was the most covered-up outfit in the entire show, but it was still imbued with plenty of attitude. Daywear owned some great moments, like a suede tunic finished with a plunging neckline and asymmetrical stud trim, a mini skirt with long pleated overlays that were held together with silver pins, and a plissé mini outfitted with a single utility pocket. Even when Vaccarello showed an array of cocktail dresses that had long hemlines on one side and short hemlines on the other, he was careful to include a welcome variety of toppers. There were star-studded jackets, simple suede dusters, bulky bombers, and treated fur coats in the mix. Tight, short, edgy looks ruled the runway, but Vaccarello filtered them all through the lens of the American Southwest, which lent a lawless vibe to the proceedings.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree