Fashion, like the natural world, is ever evolving, and this idea was central to Marni’s Fall/Winter 2015 presentation. The collection’s thesis was “survival of the chicest” and its muse was a fierce wanderer. Consuelo Castiglioni’s urban nomads were a confident tribe, striding the runway in wooly tabards and fur accents, as if they really had just come from a wintery landscape. The flattery of the female form is not something most women designers concern themselves with; the worship and appreciation of the body is most often found in the collections of men. This might explain Castiglioni’s use of fabrics so stiff in the beginning of her collection that they could realistically only be pulled off by models and anyone with a similar body type.
Elongated separates opened the show, layered with earth-toned tunics and finished with wide belts of patent leather or dyed python. Fur was used in surprising ways, like the addition of beaver-fur pockets and shiny fox sleeves on the exterior of Marni’s raw-edged separates. There was something very Jedi-Master-like about this collection, due in part to the wide belts and the precise layering of tunics over turtlenecks over skirts or of dresses over pants. Like a mathematical equation, there is always something very precise, calculated, and wonderful in Castiglioni’s layering. In fact, a piece of fabric hanging out slightly from the top of a V-neck tunic indicated that the turtleneck beneath it was just that, a turtleneck without a sweater attached to it, a sign of the designer’s attention to the overall look she was presenting – a case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.
Marni’s appreciation for the Far East and, in particular, bamboo, has been a popular element in previous collections, and this time bamboo leaves were printed onto modest silk gowns with asymmetrical hemlines. Floral fabrics were also turned into gorgeous coats and coordinated separates, breaking up the density of earthy neutrals and furs. Marni’s presentation balanced two extremes — the luxurious and the rustic — and the contrast was unifying rather than divisive.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree