When even the most loyal minimalists go maximal, a trend is more than set, it’s concretized. Yet over at Jil Sander we found a different story this season. In his second collection for the brand, Rodolfo Paglialunga explored the world of graphics, but in a subtle, unassuming way that lent visual acuity to his tidy separates and relaxed outerwear. We’d argue that it’s rather fashionable to be out-of-step when the march toward cohesion begins to feel homogenized, as is the case with Fall/Winter 2015’s extravagant but wearable parade of retro-inspired looks. Paglialunga found sure footing this time around, and bucked trends in favor of smart, beautiful clothes imbued with a slightly masculine attitude.
Although simple in nature, Paglialunga’s clothes were kept in touch with current moods by relying on fitted tailoring and graphic boldness. Patrons will love the chic fit of unlined cashmere coats, wool trenches, and elongated tunic vests, and the feel of shapes that were relaxed through the hip. Bold striping across bulky sweaters, dresses, and tops soon gave way to more subliminal touches, as the designer cast thin grids atop slim separates and trim trenchcoats, lending a delicate decorum to the masculine looks. Another tick-mark in the “win” category goes to opaque and sturdy slip dresses, which countered the featherweight versions of other shows, and make a sensible layering piece for winter. Paglialunga should also be commended for his elegant use of color, which paired sophisticated neutrals with preppy pieces in vivid shades of tangerine, sunflower, turquoise, lavender, and forest green. All in all, it was a good follow-up to Paglialunga’s inaugural outing for Jil Sander, setting a patient tone that obsessed over fit and structure rather than flash and novelty.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree