Giambattista Valli’s Giamba collection for Fall 2015, salaciously titled ‘Instagram Lolitas’, was both beautiful and slightly politically incorrect in its representation of young girls in fetishistic garb. We counted eight different floral prints in different shades of pinks and reds before losing count, from the tattoo-like tights to the bishop-sleeved frocks and the maxi dresses. The sweetness of the pieces, however, was instantly broken up and toughened up with the addition of studded platform heels, leather harnesses, and gang-inspired face tattoos. The result was perfectly off kilter and one had the impression of watching the cast of Thirteen spiral out of control.
Giambattista Valli’s Giamba collection for Fall 2015, salaciously titled ‘Instagram Lolitas’.
Why Valli chose to go down this road is anyone’s guess. Perhaps he had tired of hearing critics describe his collections as too saccharine sweet? Or perhaps he’d simply wanted to reflect on the youth of today. Whatever his reasons, styling and message are but one side of a show’s story – often a distracting one at that. The clothes themselves have a story to tell too, a story of craftsmanship. The dresses in this collection were twee and touched with impressive detail work worthy of a couture collection. In fact, the whole presentation was gorgeous and desirable, belying the darker message in Valli’s mind. Intersecting, pastel-colored floral appliqués were divided by bands of darker blossoms at the throat and waist on the opening look, and the same sublime, slightly psychedelic embroidery was repeated on many of the later looks, both long and short. The light fabrics gave way to some sturdier winterwear, like smooth fur tunics and Mongolian-fur coats.
Valli started Giamba to cater to a younger audience, but also to afford himself the opportunity to cut loose, to challenge, and to surprise. And that’s exactly what he did for Fall/Winter 2015.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree