From the artwork on Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2015 show invitations to the art on the venue’s walls to the brand’s avant-garde collection – this season’s inspiration was the trompe l’oeil geometry of the late Swiss sculptor and visual artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp. Her work influenced the directional collection by adding a sense of depth and dimensionality to Fendi’s crisp and structured presentation, but it wouldn’t be Fendi without a lot of fur and leather at play as well. The first few looks were almost clinically clean – austere white-and-cream coats, leather dresses, and painter’s smocks opened the show, but minimalist origins soon gave rise to some incredibly creative looks. Leather, one of the house’s staple materials, was patchworked together this season to create very clean apron-like pieces, multi-dimensional skirts, and cropped, sleeveless vests. While the subject du jour and the topic on everyone’s lips in Milan seems to be the death of trends, there were some strong mod references in this collection, from the oversized buttons and the headbands to the shift dresses and pinafores, that were reminiscent of what we’d seen all week – but the referenced era is where all similarities stop. A Lagerfeld collection is always unlike anything you’ve seen before, and this one was no different.
The geometric garment shapes and structures that opened the show soon gave way to a geometric print that appeared first on a skirt paired with a fantastic oversized, fur-lined, burned-orange puffer jacket before making its way onto other puffer pieces. These included a strapless number, a tiered mini dress, and a skirt-and-jacket combo modelled by none other than Kendall Jenner. Fur took on a sleeker appearance on short pastel dresses, but was also presented in shaggy and bouclé versions and covered Silvia Venturini Fendi’s futuristic boots and covetable ‘Peekaboo’ clutches and bags with geometric forms.
When highly stylized art influences the runway, it can be a hit or miss venture. Fortunately, Fendi is a house that boasts the minds, techniques, and budgets to guarantee its success.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree