Juxtaposition is a much beloved fashion theme, but the way Alessandro Dell’Acqua carefully introduced contradiction into his Fall/Winter 2015 collection for No. 21 was refreshing and beautiful. There’s something about the collision of the flashy and the practical that makes us look at our wardrobes in a whole new light. Could trim-embossed trousers the color of liquid gold really look all that great paired with a minimalist tweed coat? Does a plain beige hoody in woolly fleece make sense next to a sequined skirt? When Dell’Acqua does it, the look is a revelation. The most interesting facet of the line-up is that the more sensible pieces managed to make the loftier, technical looks more appealing. It takes gumption to leave the house in an avant-garde frock covered in gills, frills, and haphazardly stitched panels of excess fabric, but beneath a smart mohair coat, the look becomes a cohesive and wearable ensemble.
The way Alessandro Dell’Acqua carefully introduced contradiction into the No. 21 Fall 2015 collection was refreshing and beautiful.
Dell’Acqua balances his presentation between proportions and textures, sending an oversized tweed jacket, a barely-there nude turtleneck and maximal gold trousers down the runway first. Charcoal knits made from an amazing crochet stitch actually made convincing partners with all the molten gold, especially in the case of a sweater-and-mini-skirt combo slashed with brilliant metallic pockets. The next contradiction came from nubby winter coats and knee-hugging wool skirts covered in sequined tropical scenery — a look that prepares for the worst weather while paying homage to island daydreams.
His next sequence featured exquisite technique, layering sculpted scoops and swoops of fabric together, trimming them with fanned ruffles, and calling it a dress (although it was more of a madcap fantasy version). Frond-like pleats began popping up on everything after they were introduced, and were an especially electrifying element on the printed dress Kendall Jenner wore. Also in the mix were handsome cropped wool coats, mink tank tops, and ribbed sweaters trimmed with fur panels. The mash-up of ideas on the No. 21 runway not only has us looking forward to the Fall/Winter 2015 season, but also inspired the notion that the Venn diagram of glamour and pragmatism have more overlap than we previously thought.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree