Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos injected fun and whimsy into their Fall/Winter 2015 collection by using boardgame motifs and neon graphics as visual filters on luxurious après ski separates and outerwear. Yet, this fact isn’t clear until at first. There’s something familiar at work in their collection, something you can’t quite put your finger on, until suddenly the memory of a rainy evening spent indoors trying to beat your sibling at Snakes and Ladders comes rushing back. Grid patterns, intersecting pathways, and sinewy shapes are employed to amplify fuzzy knitwear, jumpsuits, and trim outerwear. The elements leap from neutral surfaces in neon hues, guiding us ever higher up the ladder of fashion.
The opening look is a startling molded white leather coat, where sections have been scooped out and filled with pale pink fur. Next is a delicious white, crocheted sweater with porthole cut-outs pockmarking the surface. Shearling is then shaved into rounded shapes that are stamped with smooth silver studs. What these opening looks declare is heightened technique, and a flair for dramatic details that had us aching for hands-on exploration. Etchings continue to carve their way through the clothes, with following looks featuring pinpricked mandalas and embroidery adding incredible texture to simple frocks and wooly coats. While these skilled elements are attention-grabbing indeed, they are only a gateway to more impressive design feats. Angora knits are covered in colorful circuit board patterns, mod jackets are tamped with nebulous appliqués, camel trenches are trimmed with thin neon yellow stitching, and fitted pencil skirts and turtleneck tops are covered in a complex system of highways and byways. Looks grow more colorful and dizzying as the show comes to a close, as the board game theme is abstracted onto multi-colored coats, and sleeveless dresses Frankensteined together from a montage of painted fabrics. When it comes to creative clothes, Peter Pilotto is a resource not only for the gamine and fun-loving, but also for those who are seriously invested in high-fashion.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree