Antonio Berardi’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection was a study in form, structure, and manipulated surfaces, inspired by the deconstructivist architecture of Frank Gehry. The designer’s visit to the Louis Vuitton Foundation at Bois de Boulogne acted as a starting point for creation. Berardi began to dream up his presentation after he noticed the glassy jut and ripple of Gehry’s magnificent commissioned work situated in the midst of the park’s exquisite gardens. This season, his collection might have been densely structured and complex, but it was meted out on florid floral fabrics and lush silk brocades.
Urbane looks opened the show, favoring chic navy layers complemented by touches of gold leaf embroidery. Dresses were outfitted with cascading ruffled layers, while the architectural structure of a stiff brocade bodice fitted with loose lavender sleeves and a peplum hem gave an artistic sense of purpose to daywear. Asymmetry was favored on the Berardi runway, as jackets came down with a single jutting lapel, dresses were finished with snug single shoulder-wrapping details, and mixed prints were stitched together at angles. With such fanciful elements in play, looks erred on the side occasion-dressing, even when they were as simple as a tee and trousers. For example, Berardi’s daring separates were done in sheer black which were splattered with gold and royal blue, and one all-black look featured silk fabric that folded around the bicep like the ends of a scroll while trousers featured a sackcloth waistline. Especially fetching were his athletic outerwear pieces covered in puffy reflective material, and lovely silk skirts twisted and folded like turbans or pulled taffy. It was an impressive display to say the least, and marked a step up for Berardi as he began to develop new ways to express his design skills.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree