For Fall/Winter 2015, Mary Katrantzou proves that mesmerizing prints are not the extent of her talent, opting for a directional new aesthetic that explored the incredible world of tactile detail work. Her influence was horror vacui, an artistic conception that addresses a fear of empty space by stuffing every square inch of canvas with as many components as the space can contain. By decorating her tidy flared looks, ornate outerwear, and modish sheath dresses, with paisley and damask prints, tiny plastic pyramids that glistened like tinsel, PVC elements, and multi-colored crystals, Katrantzou’s artistic feat assuaged all fears.
Flare was everywhere, popping up first on a muscular opening look touched with pink pyramid plastic details at the hip before ending in a flurried trumpet skirt. Slowly she introduced prints and embroidery, first in pale hues and then in a shout of brilliant jewel tones. In addition to the flared skirts and trousers on the Katrantzou runway, there were plenty of unexpected looks to emerge, like a cropped quilted yellow turtleneck, or a mod sheath dress decorated with moss-like texture and crystal embroidery. Outerwear was far and away the biggest crowd-pleaser, with a selection that offered up some truly astonishing looks, like a hooded tapestry print finished with shingled pockets trimmed with squishy foam pyramids. This innovative collection highlights the extraordinary heights fashion can reach as an art form, but Katrantzou’s careful machinations secured the otherworldly clothing in the realm of the wearable.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree