It may be 2015, but Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein was more interested in what the past had to offer and in how to alter a mod/beatnik fusion so that it made sense in the modern fall/winter wardrobe. His retro-inspired collection was not undertaken as a mimic, but as a prism that cast a new perspective on mod and bohemian trends. For that reason, he took a minimalist approach, and used luxurious animal skins to make a decidedly sophisticated point.
The show launched with a simple satin-finished coat, which upon closer inspection revealed unfinished, raw edges. In a sense, this is a classically New York look – aloof, all-black, and touched with artisanal details that signal that the wearer is more than your average discerning consumer. Soft nude and blush looks added a more feminine feel to the proceedings, and most of them were smartly trimmed with oversized mod-ish buttons or strips of leather punched with grommets. Crowd favorites came by way of coats, cropped pants, and shift dresses that were cobbled together from sliced rectangles of leather or suede. The patchworked theme raised the beatnik flag, while silver buttons, clean lines, and an austere adherence to symmetry spoke for the mod squad. Eveningwear teased subtle glamour from trim black dresses, with closing looks of needle-punched leather that ended the collection on a winning note.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree
