While the faux bob hairstyles and the flashy, fringe-y dresses on the Marchesa Fall/Winter 2015 runway seemed to suggest the spirit of the 1920s, this collection took a different approach to rework vintage glamour. The 20s were demarcated by the garcon silhouette, two flat lines that ran parallel to the body which were achieved by drop-waist dresses. Marchesa was working with a far more clingy, seductive silhouette than that, so if you’re going to point to the 20s as a reference point, you’ll have to consider – not the flapper – but the burlesque dancer.
Marchesa’s girls are usually angelic, but this season, they’re vixens, trotting the catwalk in revealing gowns, blood red lipstick, and sky-high stilettos. The show launches with Karolina Kurkova in a clinging, gorgeous black tassel gown with a neckline encircled by an enormous ring of deep red posy appliqués, followed by a series of separates with complicated appliqué and crystal adorned tops paired with smooth matching trousers. Dresses are where the burlesque clues kick-in, carried out on sleeveless feathered looks with tuxedo lapels, ivory tassel frocks, and mesmerizing column gowns adorned with tinsel. The garden-in-bloom tiered skirt we saw at Spring 2015 was given a sultry makeover by trading in the ruffled layers for sheaths of champagne fringe, which twitched and leapt from the surface with every movement. Although seductive, there was a softness at work in many of the looks, particularly a dress featuring a cloud of periwinkle tulle engulfing the model. Marchesa loves pretty details, so the entire collection was upholstered in fringe, electric marabou wisps, ornamental appliqués, and lace. Red carpet finery is the brand’s mainstay, and we can’t wait to see some of the show’s front-row attendees, like Blake Lively, in one of the exquisite, glamorous gowns from this season.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree