For Fall/Winter 2015, Michael Kors cited an interest in contradiction – the kind possessed both by people and by personal style. For that reason, his focus on “opulent restraint” resulted in the balance of opposites. Extravagant furs and glittering bias-cut eveningwear took their place on the runway next to crisp, preppy separates, wool admiral’s coats, and snappy knitwear. His muse was Faye Dunaway in “Chinatown” and other 1930s style pioneers who were learning how to navigate and adopt the world of menswear for the first time. He had in mind real women, moms who were taking their kids to school in the early morning, or leaders who pulled late hours at the office, each desiring to look sensational with the least amount of effort.
The first look spells out the innate and genius contradiction of Kors’ methods, pitting a mafia wife maximal mink coat with a plain wool sheath dress and finishing it off with flat brogues and a tidy leather bag. It was rich without being ostentatious, and also eminently wearable. There were also fitted knit separates with cozy fur collars, plaid cape jackets, extra slouchy zoot suit bottoms, mohair sweaters, silky damask trousers, and checkered suiting to help support the message of effortless luxury. These easy pieces were dominated by an earthy palette of mustard, army green, fawn, tobacco, and charcoal, but jewel-tones took over when the show hit its midway point. After a selection of yellow printed dresses, teal pajama suiting, and tailored bouclé separates, Kors introduces interesting notions for eveningwear. The first stop is a jaw-dropping gold embroidered dress, while a navy brocade suit was hemmed with peplum ruffles and finished with fur for a luxe take on workwear (this look had First Lady written all over it). There were also black dresses trimmed in feathers and another pair of pajamas, this time encrusted with crystals, with glittering gowns to close the show. Kors’ reference to the 1930s is apropos of the fact that the era was known as The Golden Age of Glamour. With this collection, he heralds in a new age, one where glamour and comfort can happily coexist.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree