New York Fashion Week Coverage: Rodarte Fall 2015 Collection

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If we didn’t know better, we would never have pegged this presentation as Rodarte. Instead of the brand’s usual oddball sensibilities and culturally highbrow references, the Mulleavy sisters presented a flesh-baring collection that glittered like Las Vegas showgirl uniforms. There was little mystery to be had here – body-conscious silhouettes, yards of leather and lace, and lots, lots of skin left nothing to the imagination. You’ll have to look to past Rodarte seasons for heady, philosophical design endeavors; this season, it was all about rock ‘n’ roll, glamor, and the sexier side of fashion.

This season, it was all about rock ‘n’ roll, glamor, and the sexier side of fashion.

The leggy collection kicks off with a look that carries throughout the show – a high-necked sheer blouse layered with a shrunken knit top, paneled leather mini, and liquid-leather bomber. These pieces appear in different variations throughout, along with pants so skintight that you could see the models’ hip bones pressing against the surface. Leather hot pants layered over lace leggings and leather-and-mesh skirts with contrasting lace apron insets also make an appearance.

While the clothes are edgy, and certainly glamorous, they’re not exactly easy to wear. There are few among us who would dare to attempt Rodarte’s painted-on pants and confetti-spangled tanks in broad daylight, or even after the sun goes down. Outerwear is a saving feature of the show, with gorgeous renditions laying claim to decadence. One midnight-blue coat made of fur, feather, and leather stands out as something that an “It” girl might wear. Unfortunately, this doesn’t translate to Rodarte’s bookish checkered coats and jackets, which feel distinctly out of place amid all of the black lace, dyed feathers, and sequins. After a selection of flirty dresses, featuring looser cape-sleeved floral bodices and short skirts with asymmetrical hemlines, eight dazzling gowns round out the presentation, appointed with feathery plumes, multi-colored sequins, and crystal-studded sheer fabric and recalling the fearless fun of the 1970s disco queen.

Last night, the buzz after the show centered on the styling. Highlights included crystal underliner, metal chokers, lace-up, peep-toe platforms, and over-the-knee alligator boots. Maybe the New York set won’t buy into the new Rodarte aesthetic, but we have a feeling that the Italian girls will love it.

Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree

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