Donna Karan’s collection for Fall/Winter 2015 spoke to the designer’s accumulated 30 years of talent with an intense, dark, and glamorous presentation that wowed on all fronts. The tailoring was impeccable, the silhouette fused the dandy with the 80s executive, and the fabrics and embellishments were luxurious and smoldering.
From the outset, Karan’s work was heavy, opting for volume and bulk rather than streamlined precision, but, faced with real-life needs for protective, chic clothing, this method resonates with the modern woman. The first look featured an enormous coat, outfitted with plush brocade embroidery, followed by a masculine smoking jacket accented with metallic foil. When Karan wasn’t showing off her impressive selection of outerwear, she was focusing on a peplum-layered motif worn as skirts or as tops paired with masculine trousers. More than one look had us gasping in awe, like a belted jacket covered in tinsel-like material, a bishop-sleeve gray dress decorated with intersecting embroidery that resembled spun glass, a tapestry coat with a maximal Mongolian fur collar, and a sensational, burnished, thick leather jacket that looked like it had been carved of fine mahogany.
In addition to these insanely luxurious looks were feminine velvet dresses, an ivory double-collared shearling coat, and a simple and stunning gold coat, which added softer elements to the proceedings. Eveningwear was gentle and billowing in the form of four jet-black dresses with varying necklines, yet they all shared the same type of breezy silk skirt. This opulent collection was so satisfying to watch, so grandiose in scale, and so beautifully crafted. In a rather surprising grab for the crown, Karan just positioned herself among the top collections to show at New York Fashion Week so far.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree