Ahead of the Fall/Winter 2015 shows, Phillip Lim shared the angle of his collection with the fashion press, citing a desire to “push against the system.” It’s a head-scratching matter when a designer so deeply embedded in the system would try to thwart it, but fashion has always welcomed rebels with open arms. 3.1 Phillip Lim reworks recent grunge trends, and if it hadn’t been for his slick city-girl muse, the collection might have been relegated to the “been there, done that” pile. It was tricky for Lim to retread the worn-down groove of grunge for Fall/Winter 2015. However, he accomplished the task by bending grunge to meet a more sophisticated perspective.
The opening look underscored Lim’s careful fusion of anti-fashion and fashion, with a modified band tee transformed into a dress worn with a buffalo plaid overlay. A simple, glossy leather jacket clamped down on his attitudinal message. On his runway, skirts were slashed to ribbons, plaid outerwear was oversized and slouchy, bombers sprouted strange fluffy textures, and trousers were roomy, but nipped at the ankle. Yet for all the leather, plaid, and tomboyish silhouettes, the collection felt poised rather than posturing – the kind of wardrobe that urban dwellers will love, especially since it allows them to wear street fashion without having to reach for threadbare flannel shirts. Show attendees reacted positively to the presentation, buzzing about a quilted silk skirt and a dual-layered navy parka in particular. Gone are the days of grubbing through thrift-store bins; instead, the woman who grew up during the heyday of the 90s wants her nostalgic pieces presented with upmarket appeal, and Lim more than delivers on that front.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree
