Although Donna Karan’s longstanding diffusion line, DKNY, is created to embody the style of New York City women, the brand is sold around the globe and peddled to customers who want to capture that certain big-city je ne sais quoi. Therefore, it was something of a 180-degree turn for the brand when Karan decided to listen to the boys when creating her new Fall/Winter 2015 womenswear collection. Her presentation this time around focused on the masculine, which she showcased in sleek, minimalist exteriors, bulky silhouettes, and relaxed shapes.
The show launched with a smooth funnel-necked top layered beneath a nude vest and gray wool trenchcoat. Save for the skirt, the look was androgynous and comfortable, giving little credence to the shape of the female body. Yet there is room in the modern wardrobe for this covered-up notion – sometimes we want to swaddle up rather than seduce. Karan continued a forward march into masculine territory with a slouchy tunic sweatshirt (decorated with metal hardware that had been pierced with a pearl-knobbed horseshoe), shapeless outerwear, dandified tailored suits, and cozy knitwear. Although her pared-back aesthetic adds a new dimension to the DKNY conversation, Karan was quick to pull the eye toward tiny, interesting details. One bulky wool coat was tricked out with sequined embellishment down a single sleeve, while a dress was made of multi-colored geometric patches and decorated with swathes of multi-colored gemstones. Other looks were feminized with pleated, sheer hemlines, and asymmetrical details drew attention to flirty skirts and one particularly cool coat that was comprised of a collage of shaggy fur and wool patches. We’re not above stealing from the boys, especially when offerings are this cool and wearable.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree