Derek Lam’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection dispels any doubts that normcore has invaded the upper echelons of fashion. Because Lam stays in touch with his customer at an intimate level by personally attending the trunk-show circuit, he was able to internalize critical customer feedback when deploying his new designs, and his women wanted liveable clothes that buck trends and embrace the normal. The results were refreshingly wearable, effortless, and versatile. Lam also evoked the 1970s with relaxed menswear and fitted outerwear, which could easily be read as the meeting of Annie Hall and Ali MacGraw.
Lam dispensed with bells and whistles this season and focused instead on easeful tailoring and off-kilter color pairings. The show launched with a simple, slouchy navy knit sweater paired with a glossy, tobacco leather midi-length skirt, and then immediately changed course to include a mahogany-brown pantsuit that looked like it stepped straight out the 1970s. The silhouette was elongated and slightly masculine, but fluid fabrics gave his pieces a graceful edge. Felted wool trench coats were especially keen, with high collars that framed the face and simple details like contrast trim and abstract prints. Instant favorites included a black sweater blasted with a scattered abstract print, soft, oversized wool coats, track pants with striped outseams, and glossy, silk, pajama-like separates. There were a few missteps, like a gray bib overlay that fit in an unflattering way, and a few sleeveless gowns that felt like afterthoughts, but, on the whole, Lam’s collection is likely to appeal to the women he knows best: his customers.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree