If Alexander Wang’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection reads a little “single note,” one might be enticed to forgive him due to his insane schedule and inexhaustible energy for new projects (designing for Balenciaga, a collaborative denim project with Net-a-Porter, and a new furniture line all spring to mind). The word “goth” was tossed out a lot on the sidelines of the show, but Wang’s melancholic collection was too futuristic to be tied up in goth’s tired tropes. While it was certainly heavy, moody, and funereal, one got the sense that the models were marching for a cause in some sort of alien army. There was threat and terror folded into the looks, and a protective aura was cast, signaling that women are more than capable of taking self-defense into their own hands. Come at me, the clothes seemed to say, and see what happens.
What worked best were a couple of new ideas: super high-waisted trousers that hit right below the rib cage and were then cropped at the ankle for a kind of topsy-turvy silhouette, a repeated motif of slim metal yoking that rippled along the body’s curves, an amplified hourglass silhouette, and a cool must-have selection of triple-breasted coats. Wang toughened up looks with silver accents that contrasted nicely with all of the black – in particular, we loved a relaxed pair of cropped trousers that were pegged along the outseam with metal studs. Giant clunky platform shoes also bore the same silver elements, as did a new range of barrel bags. In addition to this, Wang presented mannish robes in silk, fleece, and quilted fabrics, heavy-duty outerwear, skintight glossy leather jackets in shrunken shapes, militaristic mini dresses, and more. He broke up the monotony of his jet-black palette toward the middle with a few lighter looks, like plaid outerwear, studded knitwear, and soft sky-blue denim pants, but it was a brief moment of respite in an otherwise tough collection. Although it struck a fairly singular chord, Wang was adept at putting together thrilling, threatening looks that possessed an innate type of magnetism – he surely had front-row guests Kanye, Kim, and Nicki invested in the collection by the end of the show.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree