Luxury and minimalism make strange bedfellows – on the one hand, luxury spells out bespoke treasures that signal their status with expensive bells and whistles, while on the other minimalism could almost be taken as anti-luxury with its pared-back, skeletal idea of decoration. For Fall/Winter 2015, Jason Wu’s proposition folds luxury and minimalist design into one neat package, turning to a message of “strength and seduction” to support his idea of luxurious minimalism. Wu’s greatest strength lies in his ability to refine American sportswear, and this collection underscores an elevated notion of a workwear or daywear wardrobe.
With a mix of woolen separates and slim dresses cut up the thigh, Wu levies his tailoring prowess – seams are tucked away out of sight as if to suggest that each piece arrived on the runway without a lot of fuss. But it takes a rigorous hand to mold both the boxy and fitted shapes in this collection, and even more so to make them look like they were all cut from one giant, cozy tapestry. For the first time in a long time, wool looks sexy, even flirtatious, with its smooth exterior and beautiful fit. Wu also works with crisp fabrics to add a sense of breeziness to his modest dresses, which hug and curve around the body in all the right places. Outerwear is the surefire bestseller from the collection, with handsome wool jackets worn over fur vests that offer three different options for wear. Fur is a repeat performer throughout the presentation, adding the aforementioned luxurious angle, but not in an ostentatious way. This mostly neutral collection whispered down the runway, offering rich, timeless look after rich, timeless look. After all, at this stage in his career, Wu knows full well.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree