Last season, Jean Paul Gaultier retired from designing men’s and women’s ready-to-wear in order to focus exclusively on couture. The question is: Did that move pay off? With Couture as his guiding occupation, the bar was set high for Spring 2015. Gaultier’s renewed focus seems to have energized several elements: his sense of humor (see the opening look featuring a towering beehive hair-do, replete with hair rollers, from which a gauzy wedding veil sprouted, or Naomi Campbell presented quite literally inside a flower bouquet), and his obsession with bridal garb. In fact, the latter informed the entire collection, which Gaultier spun along the theme of “say yes to the dress.”
In keeping with his enfant terrible reputation, Gaultier’s brides aren’t the doe-eyed good girls of Disney folklore, but an alternative mash-up of gothic girls, femme grooms, wood nymphs, and glam queens. Gaultier played with symmetry and balance, adding enormous volumes at the shoulder and shrinking down the waistline. He also outfitted sleek looks with 3-D plissé chiffon panels, or pitted smooth surfaces against braided fabrics, sliced silk ribbons, and crunchy crinoline. Every look bore a story, with the models playing their assigned characters with charm and humor. Jean Paul Gaultier could have rested on his laurels after 38 years of design, but this collection proves that he still has skill to share.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree