Paris Couture Week Coverage: Alexis Mabille Spring 2015 Collection

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Alexis Mabille is not the first couturier to draw a link between femininity and flowers, and he certainly won’t be the last. His couture collection for Spring 2015 embodied the concept while playing up the dramatic angles of explosive silhouettes with gravity-defying ease.

Some fashion critics have cautioned Mabille to “do less” with his creative talent, but one can’t help but be swept up in this exuberant – albeit extravagant – collection. In fact, he could have rested his laurels on the opening look alone, a preternaturally gorgeous sheer gown that was encompassed by enormous orchid appliqués before finishing in a raw-edged lace hem. The feminine celebration continued with glittering crystal sequin gowns, sequined separates with dramatic cape-backed tops, lace mini dresses trimmed with baby-pink marabou feathers, and solid jewel-toned opera gowns.

Some looks fared better than others, especially when Mabille took his designs a step too far. In the case of a black, glittering floor-length gown, a contrasting origami neckline distracted from the overall look, while a shapeless salmon-pink gown begged for better structure. However, a stiff, ivory-colored cape made one model look like a magical butterfly emerging from a chrysalis, and a voluminous crimson gown made an equally powerful statement on the runway. Mabille is a fantastist, and like others of his kind he might get carried away with concept, but there is so much loveliness in this collection that we can’t fault him for enthusiasm.

Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree

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