The hot talk in New York was all about Anthony Vaccarello’s collaboration with Donatella Versace for Versus Versace, and now at Paris it’s all about his opening-day collection for Spring/Summer 2015. For all intents and purposes, the young designer has arrived. Now that his name is co-signed by Donatella, he can be certain to entertain closer scrutiny. Perhaps for that reason, he played it rather safe for the upcoming spring season, with accessible looks done in his signature slink and sex.
With his youthful monochrome separates, asymmetrical tailoring details, and smart summer suits done in nautical marinière stripes, Vaccarello deftly worked seasonal trends into a sensual, but consumer-friendly, wardrobe. The mood was more sporty and relaxed, but still featured plunging necklines, breezy see-through blouses, and skirts sliced from knee to hipbone on a dizzying slant. It becomes subtly apparent as the show progresses that Vaccarello treats the audience to a voyeuristic peep show, with cutouts and haphazard dresses revealing surprising glimpses of bare flesh. For the less adventurous, there are white trousers outfitted with glossy gaffer’s tape, moto jackets, and double-breasted blazers paired with boyish cropped trousers. Vaccarello also decreed his presence with a variety of logo prints – both logo and print work being a first for the designer. Most of the branding came in monochrome to close the show, sprawled across a variety of bandage-tight vinyl mini dresses, but it’s not as if we needed the reminder that Anthony Vaccarello is a name to be shouted from the rooftops.
Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree