It is without a doubt that Peter Pilotto has a signature look, one that screams “Pilotto!” as instantaneously as a tweed suits scream “Chanel!” Best known for searing digital prints rendered in a Pilotto-specific arrangement of clashing and contrasting abstraction, the design duo’s collections are a technicolor foray into youthful, contemporary style. However, Spring/Summer 2015 holds something different in store for the experimental designer and his co-hort Christopher De Vos abandon their signature prints in favor of something more concrete, and somehow, even more surreal.
At a distance, the composite look could be mistaken for technical prints, but up close it is clear that Pilotto has chosen to weave an unusual tapestry from glossy mirrored tiles, flat cartoonish paillettes, colorful embroidery and laminated finishes. Reflective surfaces abound on Pilotto’s multiple body-conscious mini dresses, before giving way to something softer and more relaxed. Viscose fabric printed with an off-kilter arrangement of stripes is developed into a skirt layered with step-down symmetry, and flared trousers bear the same type of effect. Relaxed dresses flaunt a collage of geometry – not necessarily color-blocking – but something akin to a paint-by-numbers abstract art kit. While outcries can often be heard when a designer strays from their signature aesthetic, this move forward looks to be nothing but a win/win for Peter Pilotto and his ardent youth army.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree