Richard Nicoll’s Spring/Summer 2015 show at London Fashion Week was sponsored by Disney’s Tinkerbell, if that tells you anything about the amount of shimmer and shine on his runway. What’s surprising was how accomplished, clean, and graceful the looks were despite their fairy foundation. Little Mermaid might have been a more accurate reference point, since Nicoll’s pearlized silks, luminescent scale paillettes, netlike knits, and muted pastel palette spoke of aquatic references as well. In fact, the entire show opened in the dark, with a breathtaking fiber-optic slip dress that resembled the type of surreal bioluminescent jellyfish found in only the deepest parts of the ocean.
When the lights came up, we were treated to fluid 90s silhouettes, unusual tailoring details, and serene minimalism. Crinkly slip dresses, floor-skimming maxis, and metallic togas represented the overtly feminine. Meanwhile, hooded dusters, skirt/trouser hybrids, relaxed sleeveless suits, and lavender dungarees were infused with traits from the menswear side of fashion, but were rendered androgynous by Nicoll’s taste for the epicene. Although the tone darkened for evening, with silky slip dresses and gowns shown in black and navy, they were still presented in lightweight, breezy fabrics. With show notes that expressed the desire to “embrace calm”, this collection was as relaxing as a morning meditating in a Zen garden.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree