While most of New York carves well-worn paths through the terrain of American sportswear and street style, The Row calmly presents the season’s most zen-like creations. Spring/Summer 2015 extends the brand’s serene style to include anachronistic tabards, cloaks, and tunics that recall the nomadic garb of the ancient Near East. In a sun-soaked Mercer Street loft in SoHo, models glided placidly down the runway in loose dresses made of basket-woven linen, kimono-wrapped tunics, and voluminous skirts made of shantung silk.
At times, the shirred drape of The Row’s tops recall techniques perfected by Haider Ackermann, while sashes tied into simple knots were reminiscent of Viktor & Rolf’s signature bows. Yet the synthesis of the drapes and knots were a fresh way to mix surface texture into a presentation of sumptuous raw fabrics. When it comes to practical application, there are some looks that fare better than others. The twins’ peplum interpretations were top notch, as were their ivory dusters and hop-sac tunic dresses. However, it’s hard to imagine where one might wear a billowing, enormous tunic in rust-brown raw silk – it certainly wouldn’t be to work or to dinner with clients. The Row’s aesthetic is best reserved for the modern-day nomad – the fashion student, the festival goer, the earth mother, the yoga teacher, the reiki healer. They purposefully build on a serene aesthetic, because this look extends to lifestyle. Style and substance support each other on The Row’s runway and, while the style is modest and unassuming, the substance comes from expert craftsmanship and an eye for understated luxury.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree