Rodarte mined the sea for inspiration for its Spring/Summer 2015 collection and returned dreamy looks beloved by landlubbers and mer-creatures alike. Looks started out on dry land, with pirates serving as the inspiration behind slimly tailored monochrome separates that read one part vamp and another part dandy.
It wasn’t long before the mood shifted to embrace a whole lot of ephemera, which the Mulleavy sisters tied to an aquatic reference point. It was hard to decipher how one actually puts on Rodarte’s mesh-knit-and-net dresses, but once on they transformed into airy little masterpieces of movement.
The key to the wispy, featherweight nature of the clothes was to keep the silhouette draped rather than tailored, so that alternating layers cut to asymmetric proportions could fall about the figure rather than become molded to it. Several of the looks offered more weight, with denser fabrics and lean tailoring supporting a more protective aesthetic. Rodarte included skintight trousers, tomboyish jackets, and sweaters and skirts with knit embroidery that resembled waves and seagulls.
Yet it was the gauzy, glittering dresses that won over the audience and featured netting overlays strewn with reflective, scale-like paillettes and sensual slip dresses made from gauzy chiffon and contrasting silks. For Spring/Summer 2015, Rodarte was lovely, unique, and everything we’ve come to expect from two of New York City’s most inspirational and innovative designers.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree