Kenzo designers, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, have a mainline connection to the cult of cool and the power to make it bend to their whims. They’ve collaborated in the past with directors Harmony Korine and Spike Jonze, but this season they set their sights on film’s biggest provocateur: David Lynch. For Fall/Winter 2014, Lynch crafted the set and soundtrack, while Lim and Leon sent out a deliciously bizarre mix of busy prints, bombastic layers and appropriately surreal texture collages. Lynch’s obsession with machinery found its way onto structurally complex garments in the form of “tool creature” prints, but the Asian motif in their brocade, embroidered looks hail from the duo’s Eastern origins. The results were crafty, intricate, and phenomenally glamorous.
Mink-trimmed bomber jackets, layered apron dresses and sequin splashed knitwear separates comprised most of their daywear offerings. It was all very cool and strange; pumped up with unlikely ingredients like optical illusion prints, plastic thorns, and off-kilter pairings. Some looks were layered to the -nth degree, showing turtlenecks underneath both mini capes and layered dresses with sweetheart necklines. Although outlandish, dark and visually hectic, there was something magnetic about this collection. The brutal clash of ideas resulted in something other, something dark and brooding that sends a chill down the spine at the same time that it ignites desire in our hearts. Kenzo’s villainous looks certainly belong in a Lynch movie, but beyond that, they belong in our closets.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway