Haider Ackermann is a typically trend-resistant designer, choosing his own draped and dreamy aesthetic and bucking Fashion Week norms. However, for Fall/Winter 2014, trends found him, as his fluid, elegant collection just happened to align with the surging popularity in relaxed knitwear this season. His elongated, minimalist lines dovetailed with an ultra-masculine silhouette, prompting a result that was both fragile and stern. His skeleton collection never deviated from a somber neutral palette save for a handful of houndstooth-flecked wool separates. Lengths were exaggerated everywhere – hemlines scraped the ground and sleeves were so long they covered up the hands. Set to a haunting track by Franz Schubert, the effect was weighty and not a little monastic. There were a few counterpoints to all of the fluid knits in the collection – fitted jackets with metallic python sleeves and ink-black python trousers worked a surprising rock ‘n’ roll angle, which seemed to come in at the moment when the music increased the urgency of its heart-pounding percussion. Finely tuned and smartly tailored, Haider Ackermann’s aesthetic took what was peaceful and plain and injected it with sophisticated elements like only the most accomplished composer would.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway