For Fall/Winter 2014, Maison Martin Margiela presented one of its most radically commercial collections to date. The new approach was borne out on British heritage textiles: tweeds, flannels, and wools that were comely, confident, and thoroughly well bred. Yet, the mysterious label still had a few tricks up its sleeve. Amid the demurely layered looks and sophisticated separates, there were obscure details that kept MMM’s signature eccentricity alive and well. It was found in the way a dainty sleeve slipped haphazardly off the shoulder, in a deconstructed suit, and in the odd exaggeration of a puff sleeve. MMM applied such details with a light touch, letting skewed style play a part to a whole that was much more important. Tailored pinafores and leather riding boots worked an equestrian angle, while other head-to-toe wool looks spoke of schoolmarm stuffiness. Subtly patterned outerwear cut with leg-framing hemlines and graphic-patterned knitwear were consumer-friendly and instantly wearable. Two toppers were immediate hits: a pure ivory cashmere car coat and a furry version possessed of strange, iridescent shimmer – further proof to the fact that MMM is still capable of working magic in the oddest of situations.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway