Sometimes in finding one’s niche, one also strikes upon their limitations. For Anthony Vaccarello, sex sells and business is good, but he’s been feeling restless. How to synthesize new traditions in womenswear? Traditions that co-opt men’s suiting (one of the most vastly popular trends in all of Fashiondom) and make it work within the context of sensuality? This season, the young designer was able to find harmony between masculine style and coy femininity. Suits, coordinated separates, and knitwear took their place in the Fall/Winter 2014 trend line-up, but were outfitted with an eye toward seduction, à la Vaccarello. Opening looks saw layers of creamy knit turtlenecks, slim-cut wool trousers, and loose blouses, with outerwear emerging as a frontrunner favorite from the presentation. Vaccarello showed a sumptuous assortment: glamorous glossy leather jackets, slinky shearling-lined bombers, gleaming jet-black trench coats, and crafty coats that featured an overblown rectangular tab collar.
The Vaccarello girl can only stayed covered up for so long, and her itch to exhibit was scratched by sizzling leather minis, sheer tops, and one particular ski bunny turtleneck sweater-dress abraded with a cut-out leopard pattern along the ribcage. Ooh la la! By the middle of the show, Vaccarello pulled the audience to the edge of its seat by injecting looks with a liquid scarlet shade that enticed us just as much as the jackets and laser cut leather blouses we saw it on. Toward the end, he introduced a series of sleeveless and single-sleeved dresses which looked fetishistic and binding – a far cry from the work-appropriate look that opened the show. Finally, Anja Rubik astonished when she entered the runway thigh-first in a silk maxi skirt sporting a row of buttons that were undone to the top of the leg. It’s enough to give any old-fashioned gal the vapors.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway