Before Dean has finished explaining to me how the theme of this collection is Girl Interrupted, Dan jumps in to correct him, “It’s more diva interrupted.” We’re standing backstage and they’ve just wrapped their Fall/Winter 2014 presentation to much acclaim. The show opened with the screening of a short film above the runway that touched on the subject of insanity and saw a group of beautiful, incredibly glamorous models locked up in an asylum. There was even a two-second clip of one of the twins trying to walk up the walls in stilettos. According to the designers, the women had been detained for being too different, for being too glamorous.
Behind the screen, the designers had recreated a psychiatric facility, complete with cells, psych testing rooms, and a recreation room where two models, dressed to the nines, were playing a game of cards. The story here? The fall from grace of the high-society girl who was too different, too glamorous for her own good. She’s dressed in her finest furs, feathered coats, embellished gowns, and elbow-length gloves – a strong contrast to the scene set behind her – as she’s escorted to the asylum by two doctors in white micro-skirt suits. Her hair is pulled up into a French twist, slightly disheveled, as if she’d put up a fight before being taken away.
There is a strong Sixties undercurrent in the collection, from the color-blocked, micro shift dresses to the double-breasted, big-buttoned coats paired with oversized sunglasses. If the link to the main theme isn’t apparent at first, remember that during the 1960s a startling number of women were detained in psychiatric care for not fulfilling their traditional duties of mother and housewife. After all, it was the decade during which hysteria had been labeled a “female problem”, curable only through love and marriage. While DSquared2 shows are always a pleasure to watch, rarely have they ever carried such heavy social commentary as this season in their defense of all that differs from the norm and is deemed by society as unacceptable.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway