In the absence of a Creative Director, Jil Sander’s runway show was under heavy scrutiny for Fall/Winter 2014. After Raf Simons was removed so that Jil Sander could return to her label, Sander left (again) after only two seasons. In her wake, a cyclone of speculation has developed – leaving a design team to face the criticism of the fashion elite. What you’ll find in this collection is textbook Jil Sander, minus innovation. They kept true to her iconic minimalism, but experimented with the “new” only as far trying tracksuits in jersey. While some scoffed at the safe bet, it’s unclear why. This presentation adhered quite closely to the shapes Sander presented for Fall/Winter 2013, and offered plenty of cocooned and cozy pieces that fit nicely into winter wardrobes.
The show was led by a flat gray padded jersey coat, cut into a jagged funnel at the neck. This plain, unembellished beginning set the tone for a subdued collection that focused on conservative jackets, slouchy trousers, and bias-cut shifts. The palette was lovely – pastels and neutrals complemented by the occasional pop of teal – and was set against plush marbled and felted wool knits, shiny brocades, and soft greiges. Toward the end, Sander’s twisted, ruched shifts were presented with a hint of sparkle, and one particularly fetching tomato red version. While we’ve witnessed a few labels undergo interim design teams during the search for a Creative Director, there wasn’t a sense of panic about the lack of leadership at Jil Sander. Instead, they calmly took measure of the Sander look and extracted what was on-message for the season. Safe? Maybe. Wearable? Absolutely.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway