At Milan Fashion Week, Roberto Cavalli stirred the pot with tempestuous remarks aimed at the relationship between celebrities and brands. Even so, his star-studded front row arrived anyway and were treated to what was easily Cavalli’s best presentation in recent memory. He turned up the heat quite literally, as models circled a burning ring of fire and as animal rights protesters congregated outside.
Sometimes Cavalli’s excess can read gauche, but his couture-like craftsmanship for Fall/Winter 2014 resulted in a collection that was as dazzling as they come. There were shades of Balmain in his intricate stud patterns, and a McQueen-adjacent feel at work with his cobalt blue warrior gown, but taken as a whole the procedure was uniformly cohesive. He worked with layering to achieve looks fit for rock ‘n roll goddesses (both actual and aspiring). There were printed silk shirts that peeped from beneath salt-and-pepper furs layered over crocodile skin jackets, and long mink vests over coordinated chain print separates. One of Cavalli’s best pieces were his trousers that were cut extra long and lean so that they fit over the shoe, creating the illusion of extremely elongated legs. For extra sparkle, Cavalli looked to sequined flapper dress that finished in a flash of fringe trimmed with feathers, and sheer grommeted slip dresses that ended in slashed leather skirts. For winter weather, he included stunning monochrome blanket capes, ermine coats, and bushy fur stoles. Neither flames nor activists could dampen his success at turning seductive luxury into one of Milan’s better moments.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway