Always on a mission to flatter the female form, Donatella Versace employed the help of figure-skimming materials, like silk and satin, asymmetrical hems, and bias cutting – for the first time ever. This technique, which consists in cutting the fabric in its diagonal direction, accentuates curves and drapes softly around the body. Boldly colored or color-blocked, the frocks were adorned with military-style buttons and embellishments. The reference became more literal and Versace’s intention clearer when double-breasted, army-style coats and jackets followed suit; Donatella was preparing her patrons for modern-day warfare, from the boardroom to the ballroom. In the designer’s own words, “Every woman can find power in Versace.” Fringed epaulettes – of the parade uniform kind – adorned blazers, coats, and jackets, and lace-up army boots took on a far more feminine, pointed-toe appearance. On the subject of boots, her laser-cut, over-the-knee design is definitely one to watch next season.
In spite of the cowgirl references – see fringed skirts and fur jackets – and the surprising oriental nuances in the cheongsam and oriental sashes, this was a relatively restrained collection in Versace terms. That’s until you remember that the trio of super-embellished micro dresses she presented is intended to be worn during the day.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway
