Giles has always been a rather intense designer, with collections that tend to overpower us with fantastical construction by the end. Yet, for Fall/Winter 2014, only traces of Giles’ intensity can be felt, as he scales way back for a street style-influenced collection that bears forth very youthful ideas and really delicious consumer-friendly pieces. Even his “weirder” pieces, like enormous wooly acid yellow tartan outerwear, look normal in comparison with his previous catalogue. Ultimately, this is a testament to the power of the street, which has come to dictate much of the output of Fashion Week. If it’s affecting Giles at this level, you can be sure that it’s as important as every hyped-up media report is making it out to be.
For Fall/Winter 2014, Giles fluctuates between feminine separates, sporty daywear, and must-have outerwear. Separates come in bright, cheerful shades and large hummingbird prints, with structure that flatters the female form. He includes several body-conscious dresses trimmed with ruffles and layered paneling and pairs them with elbow-length opera gloves. Juxtaposed against all this finesse are slouchy knit sweaters in enormous proportions (a Giles signature), oversized suiting, and a schoolgirl sense of style that layers sweaters with button-ups and modest A-line skirts. In the mix are extravagant gowns, but presented in black-and-white they read minimal on a Giles catwalk. Calm, cool, and collected proves to work in his favor, but closing on one fantastic aisle-wide gown might have helped us feel like Giles is still in there somewhere.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway