Roksanda Ilincic aims to make an artistic impact with her Fall/Winter 2014 presentation at London Fashion Week, and succeeds beautifully.
Her tranquil, sophisticated collection casts a spell – one that carries with it an “I woke up like this” type of confidence. Ilincic’s success comes from balancing her collection like a tightrope walker: the cuts are controlled and blunt, colors are paired well, and the construction is relaxed but thoughtfully appointed. Clean minimal lines (reminiscent of Chloé) are interrupted by abstract geometric patchwork that lends her looks a mod aura. This nod to the 60s is intentional, and comes across again in Ilincic’s patchwork furs that recall the wayward spirit of Penny Lane in Almost Famous. Muted shades of mauve, navy, powder blue, and tomato red are paired with a supple beige neutral, and their earthiness is interrupted at times by gleaming metal belts. These belts also help break up the elongated lines of Ilincic’s midi length proportions, and offer shape when her designs are oversized. A lot of crafty collage-work went into Ilincic’s dresses and co-ords, but on one fantastic navy sheath dress, the collage effect is replaced by cut-outs that are filled in with dainty lace paneling. She closes on an optimistic note, with three looks made up of a technicolor medley of 3D appliqués. Welcome to Arts and Crafts time, taken to the next level by one of London’s most important designers.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway