With Antonio Berardi’s move from Milan to London for Fashion Week, you can expect big changes in the output. Although still very Italian and very Berardi, his Fall/Winter 2014 collection is presented with an off-the-cuff attitude that is also very London. For his arrival at London Fashion Week, Berardi decided to bring rock ‘n roll attitude to the foreground.
His signature body-conscious silhouette and decorated finishes are very much on offer, but Berardi plays with architectural construction, a collage of custom-made fabrics and glitzy embellishment in order to establish a more maximal mood. Sensuality oozes through the collection with Berardi’s curvy silhouette, which featured corseted waists, exaggerated peplum hips, and rounded sleeves. He kept his looks fiercely fashionable with a variety of textures that played out on commissioned materials like technical mesh and quilted jacquard. Sleeves were also elaborately constructed and deconstructed for visual variety, and Berardi proved adept at showcasing them in multiple, interesting ways. There is plenty of consumer-friendly potential in his pieces, particularly the fuchsia cape-sleeved top, the body-skimming contrast-sleeve minidresses, and his witchy, wonderful floor-sweeping black gowns. Berardi’s collection might be complicated in construction, but the pacing and variety of his offerings proves an intelligent attempt at elevating his signature aesthetic.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway