Masculine tailoring swallowed up the runway at Jonathan Saunders for Fall/Winter 2014. With top-heavy proportionality and a mega-dose of patchwork patterns, Saunders puts forth a collection that brought the 80s back to life – with a high-fashion edge, naturally.
Saunders puts forth a collection that brought the 80s back to life – with a high-fashion edge, naturally.
Worthy of Bill Blass’ early days, Saunders launched with a swarthy wool coat diced up with geometric patterns. Chunky toppers continued to contend with fluttery skirts and feminine dresses throughout the duration of the presentation, but they also introduced the language of menswear into his looks. Without them, we would simply refuse to brave the winter weather in Saunders’ harlequin-patterned sleeveless dresses, no matter how fetching they were.
Not all of the looks were as bulky as the first few – Saunders also showed a gleaming gold quilted varsity jacket and a must-have leather bomber. With necessary emphasis on outerwear, Saunders completed his looks with eccentric touches like mismatched shoes, contrast trim, and liquid metal accents. The complicated construction of his closing dresses deserve a closer look, as Saunders painstakingly crafted them from individually placed Woolmark patches. This textural element was unique, and nearly distracted us from the excellent knit sweaters he paired them with. With a Saunders collection, we’re expecting something different (even in the context of London Fashion Week and its outlandish reputation), and he delivers this season with hyperbolic outerwear, plush knits, and kitschy separates.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway