Beneath a canopy of puffy clouds, Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2014 attendees were seduced into a hypnotic state. With a soundtrack that looped spoken word lyrics to Happy Days Are Here Again and a continuous refrain of marching, clone-like models, Jacobs set a meditative mood for his presentation. The meaning behind this collection was two-fold: 1) Jacobs is literally promising the return of “happy days” now that he has left his post at Louis Vuitton to focus all of his energy on his eponymous empire, and 2) Jacobs is taking a much more optimistic approach to winter fashion than his peers. With light, airy clothes that read spring/summer far more than fall/winter, Jacobs throws a defiant wrench in the idea of “seasonal appropriateness” and makes a mockery of the very real and very cold snowdrifts piling up on the streets of New York City just outside his Armory on Lexington venue. After all, this is Marc’s world; we’re just living in it.
It’s a bold move for the designer since curiosity over his Fall/Winter 2014 collection reached its zenith after he announced his retirement from Louis Vuitton. There are few who would attempt the same, but Jacobs actually prefers to turn seasons on their head. Recall a few months ago when he showed a Spring/Summer 2014 collection that sweated with Victorian layering and heavy fabrics? For the forthcoming winter season, Jacobs focused on sporty minimalist separates, plain salwar kameez, basic tunics, and finely tuned knitwear. From humble beginnings, the show quickly evolved to include completely sheer shirts, cropped wool trousers, chunky bomber jackets, patched sweaters, and futuristic track pants. For the finale, Jacobs showed glittering sleeveless blouses and dresses touched with ruffles along the bodice, but these details were carried out with very delicate finesse. The tranquil gowns Jacobs produced for winter eveningwear were suggestive of his new approach: sophisticated, scaled-back, and eminently wearable.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway