BMX bikers. Skate parks. Power Rangers. Gamer girls. Anime princesses. Samurai warriors. Alice in Wonderland. If Marc by Marc Jacobs’ multiple influences seem disparate, you haven’t been on the internet lately. For Fall/Winter 2014, Marc Jacobs extracts from the vein of pure, unadulterated “cool” that is the current London fashion scene, tapping British notable Katie Hillier to be MbMJ’s new Creative Director. Hillier joins forces with familiar fashion favorite and former editor Luella Bartley, and together the duo crafts a kinetic collection that blends the energy of youth with modernized menswear suiting.
As Jacobs powers up to go public this year, he turns to Hillier and Bartley to increase the profile of Marc by Marc Jacobs. At this moment in time, Fall/Winter 2014’s wearability and success are paramount for this contemporary line, especially since 70 percent of his business is attributed to it. Since real-world application [meaning real women need to be able to see these clothes in their wardrobes and on their bodies] is key here, it seems strange that Hillier and Bartley turned to the tricky drop-crotch wool trouser to pair with most of the presentation. Anyone with a tummy, slouchy posture, or wide hips will take one look at them and pass. However, Hillier and Bartley’s brilliance is revealed when you step back to take in the entire look: MbMJ’s baggy trousers are topped with enormous waist-cinching obi belts and tucked into high-topped leather moon boots, which create an hourglass silhouette despite all the odds. Therefore, if you want to pull of this suave new silhouette, you have to invest in the whole look. That’s what we call a brilliant consumer strategy.
Beyond that, Hillier and Bartley blend Americana classics like plaid and gingham with neutral sportswear, glossy vinyl separates, relaxed suiting, metallic tops, and embroidered jeans splashed with sponsor’s logos. For evening, voluminous tiered skirts are layered with tight wool blazers, nubby sweaters, and tailored leather jackets to create a stacked and layered look that makes the case for knitwear luxe glamour. It looks like Hillier and Bartley can indeed be trusted to take this fashion-forward brand into a new era of relevance.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway