Derek Lam’s Fall/Winter 2014 presentation is simpatico with the evolving needs of his clients, offering up enveloping volumes of wool and cashmere and an unembellished confidence that put tailoring center stage. Cocooned in sumptuous fabrics, the Derek Lam woman is set up to conquer her environment.
Though soft textures are typically coupled with languid shapes, Lam keeps his silhouette stiff and regal by using drop-shoulder tailoring and a molded silhouette. He also ushers in the return of the turtleneck – one of fashion’s most misbegotten creations – turning it into the fashion statement of the season with versions in fringe, wool, and Mondrian color-blocked jersey. For trousers, Lam paneled together sections of leather or suede to break up the stiffness of the material, allowing for supple movement and a comfortable fit. Skirts were created with the same ease of movement in mind as Lam slashed hems to ribbons or presented them in plush knits. Winning looks include a powder-blue bouclé wiggle dress, an all-white jacket-and-skirt combination paired with slouchy patent-leather boots, and a glittery/glossy jacket in deep emerald green. His finale included three sensational “Prayer Flag” gowns – inspired by Tibetan tradition – that featured panels held together by beading. Though his works were plain and simple, they were anything but basic. This type of minimalist elegance and a wearable fit will help the brand find new fans and will cement the loyalty of longtime patrons.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway